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Saturday, February 25, 2012

Sur Bonarda Reserva 2005 (about $15)

About the Wine: Bonarda is a very dark, very dry red wine.  It is obscure partly due to the difficulty of growing the grape and partly because is very similar to Dolcetto, a slightly less obscure variety produced mainly in Italy.  This is the first Bonarda I have ever had so this review is based on the wine itself rather than any particular expectation of what the varietal is supposed to look, smell, or taste like.
About THIS Wine:  This Bonarda is so dark that it is almost opaque.  The color in the center is a deep red or light purple with a garnet rim around the edge of the glass.  The nose is complex, with hints of smoke, minerals, red fruit, and grape (yes, some wines do smell like grapes.  It's baffling.)  The palate is one of the driest that I have ever had.  Despite the dryness, it is very rich in flavor with hints of currant, black licorice, and something that is almost but not quite the taste of red meat.  The finish is dry, savory, and lingering.
Drinking This Wine:  This is definitely a food wine for most people.  The heavy palate and tannins make it a difficult wine to curl up with in the way that one might with a light Pinot Noir or a fruity Merlot.  I would have this wine with heavy red meats such a thick, rare steak or meat in rich sauce.
Overall Impression: A decent wine for a very particular drinker and meal and worth a try for a wine drinker looking to explore.  At fifteen dollars I would have to say that it is reasonable, but not exceptional.

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